Texas Ranger Hall of Fame and Museum

On our way home from Argentina, we stayed for a few days in Austin. On the drive from the Dallas airport, we stopped at the Texas Ranger Hall of Fame and Museum in Waco. There we found:

• A blood-splatter simulation display.
• A collection of bugs that inhabit the human body as it begins to decompose.
• A safe full of valuables that contains a beauty pageant tiara.

There were also enough guns to outfit a large militia, and endless photos of white men in hats. While we were there, a man’s cell phone rang, and before he picked up, I recognized his ringer as “God Bless America.” I love you, Texas.

Delicacies

Every morning, the hotel brings us complimentary breakfast, which Bryan calls the “bucket of toast.” Breakfast elsewhere in the city is equally toast-centric, or made up of confusing components. We ordered breakfast at a tourist place, and they brought us toast, fruit salad, and two slices of cheesecake. The dinner menus, on the other hand, are rife with omelet options. So it’s not that Argentines have no use for breakfast; apparently they just prefer to have it the night before.

A few days into our trip, we discover the wonder of empanadas. I warn Bryan that they’re hot inside, but he forgets in the five seconds it takes to lift the empanada to his mouth. His face contorts.

Me: Oooo. Is the roof of your mouth still attached?
Him: (swallows) No, but it’s delicious cooked.

Mate


Mate

Originally uploaded by MaggieMason.

Mate is Argentina’s afternoon drink of choice. It’s kind of like tea, but you fill the special cup 3/4 full of herbs, then stick in a straw with a filter at the bottom so you can drink it.

It tastes like a cup of sweet clover steeped in warm, slightly diluted bile. I would ingest something like it again only if a pleasant hallucinatory experience were to follow.

Sparkle Motion

On our first night in Buenos Aires, our taxi driver took us to a tango salon in Palermo. After a few hours of watching impassioned couples slinking around the floor, we decided–in a bout of overconfidence–to learn how to tango. There was some red wine involved. OK, an entire bottle.

The next day, in the mildly irritating light of morning, we booked two hours of instruction for each day of our visit, and began our search for tango shoes.

If you’ve never seen women’s tango shoes, imagine the kind of monstrosity fuck-me pumps you’d ordinarily find in a fetish Manga comic book. Now coat them with red and silver glitter, and affix a large leather rosebud to the ankle strap. Voila!

Bryan found a pair of attractive suede-soled sneakers in the first store we visited. I scanned rows of weapons-grade, structurally unsound affronts in varying degrees of sparkle. Did I want the purple and green sequin ones? Or maybe the orange reflective velvet ones with floral silhouettes burnt into the fabric? I finally found some black practice shoes with heels wider than toothpicks, but taller than necessary.

After 16 hours of tango instruction, the balls of my feet are like tender cutlets of raw chicken. You could bread and deep-fry them, and I’d find it soothing. I bought some of those silicone toe pads to ease the throbbing, and they’re so heavenly that walking feels vaguely obscene, like I should reciprocate somehow. I want to tile our kitchen floor with toe pads; I want to stuff them in my mouth. I’m pretty sure they’d taste like whipping cream.

My Kind of Town

I’m in Chicago, and it is not warm here. When we deplaned, my teeth tried retreat into my gums for warmth. Now I know why so many fur activists seem to live in California.

Our hotel room has a sign for the door that says I’m sleeping, or working on my flying machine! I never thought a Do Not Disturb sign would make me feel inadequate for napping.

Also, I Tried Hot Sauce


Sharks
Originally uploaded by MaggieMason.

I have not, historically, been a risk taker. Try this new television show? OK. Choose a new breakfast cereal? Maybe. Strap a bungee cord to my ankle and leap face-first into a pool of asphalt? I’ll be hiding the coat closet.

Of course, I’m not saying that I should be jumping from airplanes or swan diving off cliffs to prove that I’m brave, just that I can be disproportionately afraid of certain things. At times my fear that Something Bad Will Happen can be so powerful that it dares the universe to deliver.

On our honeymoon, Bryan spent hours backstroking in the ocean outside our room, while I worried from the balcony. The water was choppy and dark, I could tell a storm was coming in, and you couldn’t see the bottom because the sand was so churned up. As all of you know, when you can’t see what’s around you, you’re obviously surrounded by vicious beasties that would like to suck the marrow from your bones.

After much cajoling, Bryan finally convinced me to join him for a swim. I cautiously waded in up to my thighs, and was immediately stung by a jellyfish.

This is how it goes. I predict that Bad Stuff will happen, and Bad Stuff never lets me down. So, this year, one of my birthday goals was to ignore my own best instincts. I decided to take more risks.

When we left for Belize, I knew it had some of the most beautiful reefs in the world, and we agreed to take a snorkeling trip. I had to steel myself for the good of the group, because I’ve never really enjoyed snorkeling. When I’m not struggling to get my mask to work, I’m floating paralyzed in a teeming soup of living things. All of them swim faster than me, and sharks totally know this.

Still, I’m the one who wanted to take more risks, so a few days into vacation we climbed aboard the boat that would take us to the reef, about fifteen minutes away from the island. Once we were in the water, my new resolve to resist panic was holding up. We’d been swimming for a half hour or so, and I was having a great time. That is, until our guide grabbed my upper arm and pointed out a dark, ominous shape waiting below us. It was a shark.

I inhaled a lungful of salt water, jerked my head up to choke and gasp for air, then smacked my face back into the water so I could monitor the shark. As our guide swam down toward it, I began to hyperventilate and search frantically for Bryan. I planned to grab him around the chest and drag him back to the boat.

Our guide took hold of the shark’s fins, and then let it pull him along as it struggled to get away. Horrified, I finally found Bryan in the tangle of limbs and snorkel masks. He read my terror, and responded with a dizzy grin, shoving his hands in my face with his thumbs pointed up. Chum, I thought.

Having scared the shark away, our guide returned to the group and we continued on our way back to the boat. I was shaking a little as I climbed aboard and peeled the mask off of my face. You didn’t like the shark much, did you? Bryan asked. No, I said. I did not.

A few minutes later, the boat stopped unexpectedly and our guide pulled out a bucket of fish. He threw handfuls overboard, and in a few moments the water was jumping with sharks. I inhaled deeply.

Climb in! our guide yelled, over the din of gnashing teeth. They won’t bite.

I drew my eyebrows in and pointed accusingly at the convulsing mass. Biting was all they seemed to be doing. Biting is, in fact, how sharks roll.

Our guide laughed, They’re nurse sharks! Not aggressive.

They were leaping and tearing at the fish, piling on top of one another to get at it. Our friend Erin, a certified diver, was already halfway down the ladder. Bryan snapped his mask on and ran his thumb beneath the elastic band. Come on, baby! he said. I clenched my teeth and whimpered.

You’re not coming? he asked, throwing one leg over the side. He was disappointed. My eyes widened. No! I said. No! Why exactly are we getting in the water here? For a front-row view of a feeding frenzy? But Bryan was already in.

I reached for my camera and kept an eye out for his head bobbing above the waves. I could hardly believe how many sharks there were, or how vicious they looked, tearing at the chum.

While I watched, I could already begin to feel the pull of regret. I knew that when we got home, I wouldn’t be able to join in when Bryan told this story to our friends; that I would have to say I’d waited in the boat.

I thought about how much of my life I’d spent watching other people do things that scared me. Here I was, standing by, while people a few feet away from me were seizing a once-in-a-lifetime moment. I knew I wasn’t being brave, and I was jealous of the others who had slipped into the water so confidently. I thought about my resolution, and how swimming with sharks is the actual clich that people use to describe foolhardy risks.

As I secured my mask, Bryan surfaced and beckoned me in. I adjusted my snorkel, and jumped.

Simple(ton) Pleasures

Something about Belize the soft air, the magical quality of the light, the beer for breakfast–made us more susceptible to awful puns.

Erin would tell a story, Rachel would exclaim, That’s un-Belize-able! and we’d all collapse in riotous laughter. As we passed a vacation home named Maya House, I adopted an Italian accent, That’s-a my-a house! Woo-hoo! Bryan practically had to wipe the tears from the corners of his eyes.

Apparently, everything is more entertaining when you don’t have access to basic cable.

Back Home


Uhhhh.
Originally uploaded by MaggieMason.

Pensive or hung over? You be the judge.

I’m sorry for the silence in my absence. My substitute poster thought I was sending a word file, but I had saved the entries as drafts. Anyway, that means extra-bonus entries for the next few days.

Belize and Guatemala were amazing.If you want to see the trip photos, you’ll find them on my Flickr stream, and you’ll even get to see many of them twice! (I’m having trouble mastering the Uploadr.)

I don’t seem to have come down with Malaria, and my digestive system is returning to normal, so back to our regularly scheduled programming. Thanks for your patience.

Texas Rebels

While we’re in Texas with Bryan’s family, we have dinner at the hotel where we’re staying. On my way to the bathroom, I realize the hotel is also hosting a high school homecoming dance. The hallway is jammed with boys in ill-fitting suits and extravagantly rouged girls, all fiddling with their itchy wrist corsages.

In the women’s room, a the girls are jockeying for a bit of the mirror, applying lipstick and fussing with their severe updos. When they notice me, they give embarrassed smiles and scoot aside so I can wash my hands. Just then, two girls enter and stop inside the door. One is in a tasteful chocolate dress with cream piping, cut in a fifties silhouette. The other is wearing a Barbie-pink gown, festooned with glitter, and transparent from her feet up to her knees. She is very slim, just leaving behind her gawkiness, and she begins to hike her skirt up in front of the mirror. Her friend objects:

-You’re doing it right here?

-What?

-You’re just going to do it right here?

-Yeah? Why not?

She reaches up her skirt, wriggles, yanks free an enormous, elastic, tan girdle. She lets out a heavy sigh and pats her flat tummy.

-Why were you even wearing that thing?

-Because my mom told me I looked fat.

-What?

-She said, Here. Your stomach is sticking out. Put this on.

-What a bitch.

-I know.

Where Have I Been?



Originally uploaded by MaggieMason.

First in Skeneatales, NY for The Morning News retreat; then visiting Jen, Jeff and sweet little Arlo in Rhode Island. Now I’m in Brooklyn, but we’ll be off to D.C. tomorrow for Adaptive Path’s User Experience Week. Then I’m going to sleep for two years.

Keep an eye on my Flickr stream if you want to see photos. I have a new camera. It’s so good I have to restrain myself from licking it in public.